Right shoulder and right side of neck (same sequence for back or front).
1. Carriage at right. Jot down row number. If in pattern, jot down pattern row(link to cheat sheet).
2. Russell Levers to I (hold position)
3. All needles to L of O to hold. Required number of needles (as specified by pattern) to R of O to hold (note: if you are converting a hand knit pattern this would be half the number of stitches cast off for the neck centre.)
4. Hook piece of waste knitting to sinker posts (under needles in hold) to avoid marking the knitting when brushing by it with the carriage.
5. Continue to dec. at neck edge as pattern specifies by bringing needles to hold.
6. If one stitch decrease is specified then wait 'til the carriage is at the left then bring forward the needle to hold at neck edge - this gives an auto wrap.
7. If more than one stitch is specified - with carriage at R - bring forward to hold the required number of needles minus one. Knit to left, bring forward remaining needle (this auto wrap avoids a hole).
9. Continue to decrease until all stitches required at neck edge for right front are in hold. Knit to shoulder top - take off on waste knitting. (for the sake of simplicity I am omitting short row shaping of the shoulder).
Left shoulder and left side of neck
10. Complete left side of knitting to match. (if in pattern you must put the needles back to B position with a tool before resuming knitting - you cannot push them down to C and have them knit O.K. unless you are in stocking stitch). When left side is complete, take off on waste yarn.
11. Stitches remaining are the original centre front neck stitches and side of neck stitches that were brought to hold as you knit up to the shoulder. Note: if you had a few rows of straight knitting before you reached the final shoulder row you will have a gap between the neck stitches in hold and the top of the shoulder. Fill in by picking up as many stitches as you can easily in this space and popping them on the needles (check to be sure you have the same amount on each side).
12. Do one row with mc over all needles (this gets rid of the auto wrap loops).*
13. Remove main bed arm, put on ribber arm, bring up ribber.
14. Put every alternate needle on ribber. Insert comb and weights.
15. Do first row of ribbing a little looser. Set tension for rib. Do required number of rows of ribbing.
16. Transfer sts to main bed. Lower ribber. Remove weights - DO NOT remove comb.
17. Use comb to find first row of ribbing. Look at the knitting on the comb - you can see that the comb is isolating every alt. st. on the first row of your hem, pick up these stitches to make your hem.
18. Now remove comb - if you want you can pick up the missed stitches.
19. Do one last row to get rid of double stitches on needles.
20. Latch off loosely.
*ADDENDUM for one row contrast at bottom of neckband rib.
12a. Turn work with garter bar.
12b. Knit one row in contrast colour and turn work with garter bar.
12c. Knit one row in main colour.
13. Continue as above.
|Copyright©rvk Feb. 1999|